Saturday, 19 Jun 2021

Basic of Sewing

KINDS OF BASIC STITCHES

  1. Running stitches
    In the hand sewing, a running stitch is created by Simply running the needle and thread through the layers of fabric without back stitching.
    1. Basting stitch
      This stitch is just the running stitch but longer. Instead of making your stitches a centimeter apart, make them ¼ inch to ½ inch apart from each other.
  2. Cross stitch/ catch stitch
    Cross-stitching is suitable for finishing hems and for designs that are front-facing.
    1. Back stitch
      Layer after layer of back stitches created a pattern of threads that people could wear.
  3. Slip stitch
    This stitch is useful when you’re trying to sew hems so that you can’t see stitches
    1. Blanket stitch/ buttonhole stitch For finishing the edges of blankets or for creating buttonholes.
    2. Standard forward/backward stitch
      When you’re ready to move off of the hand stitching and onto sewing machine stitching
    3. Zigzag stitch
      Provides a clean finish to raw edges, and you can use it as a finish technique in combination with a stay stitching line. You can adjust both the width and length of this stitch.
    4. Blind Hem stitch
      Mix of straight and zigzag stitches The purpose with this stitch is to either sew two pieces of fabric together or the fold of one fabric together.
    5. Buttonhole stitch
      While While the zigzag stitch is good for stitching buttonholes, most sewing machines have the capability to create buttonholes with a special foot attachment or a pre-programmed buttonhole setting.

2.2 : SEWING MACHINE STITCHES
1. Standard Forward/ Backward Stithces
A stitch sewn one stitch length backward on the front side and two stitch lengths forward on the reverse side to form a solid line of stitching on both sides.
2. Zigzag Stitches
The zigzag stitch provides a clean finish to raw edges, and you can use it as a finish technique in combination with a stay stitching line. You can adjust both the width and length of this stitch

  1. Buttonholes
    Stabilize your fabric where the buttonhole will be stitched. Mark your buttonhole on your fabric with a ruler and fabric pen, making it ¼” larger than your button
  2. Blind Hem stitch
    A blind stitch in sewing is a method of joining two pieces of fabric so that the stitch thread is invisible, or nearly invisible. … A common technique used to create a hem, or “blind hem”, hides the stitches on both sides of the garment
    5. Turn and stitch
    This is mainly used on crisp cottons. Fold and press the seam, allowing a 1/4 inch, and machine stitch along the folded edge to finish.
    1. Bias tape
      This is mostly used on unlined jackets and skirts. Using purchased 5/8 inch bias tape, enclose the raw edge with the tape and stitch through all layers. Commercial bias tape is slightly wider on one side; that side should be on the underneath the fabric.
    2. Pinked seams
      A zigzag cut from a saw/scallop-toothed edge blade using pinking shears or a hand crank pinker.
  3. Top Stitch
    The top stitch creates a hard hem line, and can be used to strengthen a seam or as a decorative finish.

2.3: DARTS AND SEAMS
9. Plain darts
Found around the bust, waist and hips. This type of dart can be
manipulated and altered to make different design.

  1. Bust darts
    They start lower on the bodice (at the side seam, down near the waistline) and end up near the bust point — effectively combining a bust dart.
    1. French dart
      Are a type of elongated bust dart that starts at the side seam, down near
      the waistline, and end up near bust point.

Another types of PLAIN darts include SHOULDER and NECK darts
This are used to add a feminine shape to a garment that might look boxy without that shaping. Think of difference between a man and woman’s blazer. Waist darts are also simple darts that are found in pants and un-gathered skirts.

  1. Dart tucks
    The open ends give a pleated appearance, which adds a softer look to billowy pants and blouses.
  2. Elbow darts
    Elbow darts are seen more in couture, tailored jackets and allow you to have a more fitted sleeve with room to move.
  3. Double pointed darts
    Having two darts joined together at their widest ends, with one point toward the bust and one toward the waist.
  4. Curved darts
    Are used when the straight line of a basic dart does not provide enough to fit your shape. Can be stitched slightly concave or convex depending on the shape you need to fit.

2.4: FASTENING FOR ALL TYPES OF CLOTHES
1. Hook and loop
Consist of two components: typically, two lineal fabric strips (or, alternatively, round “dots” or squares) which are attached (sewn or otherwise adhered) to the opposing surfaces to be fastened

  1. Poppas/eyelets
    Eyelets, washer, hole punch and eyelet tool. Rustproof press fasteners for use with jersey, or light weight fabrics.

2.5: BUTTONS/SEAM EDGE FINISHES
(SEAM EDGE FINISHES)

  1. Plaim seam
    Two fabrics are joined together along the seam line by a line of stitching.

FRENCH SEAM
A seam that encloses the seam allowance on the inside of a sewn item so that no raw edge is visible and eliminates the need for another form of seam finish. It is used most commonly on very sheer fabric so the seam blends with the fabric. A french seam is most common on a straight seam.

FLAT FELLED SEAM

Felled Seam/Flat-fell seam, is a seam made by placing one edge inside a folded edge of fabric. A strong seam that will not fray and is most commonly seen on jeans.

BUTTONS

Image: Pexels

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